ALUNAR 3D Desktop Printer Prusa i3 DIY High Accuracy CNC Self Assembly Review ⭐⭐⭐:halfstar::emptystar:



To Buy Or Not Summary

:star::star::star::halfstar::emptystar: by 206 customers
3.5 out of 5
  • Amazon Customer Reviews
    :star::star::star::halfstar::emptystar: by 206 customers
    3.5 out of 5


  • Affordable 3D Printer for Everyone:DIY 3D printer kit design and rigid quality control standards deliver high quality products at fair prices. No matter you are Professional, Maker, Designer, or Hobbyist etcyou can assemble your own personal 3D printer by your own hands and create something unique by yourself
  • Support Many 3D Filament Types:The heated build plate and wide range of extruder temperatures allow this printer to work with many types of 3D filament, from basic filaments, such as ABS and PLA, to more advanced materials, such as conductive PLA, wood …etc.
  • Excellent Quality Performance: LCD screen to display
  • easy control by 5 keys
  • customerized good quality extruder
  • 4 stars lead screw brass nut & high import lead rod
  • high quality stepmotors(without interruption for 1000 work hours)
  • updated mainboard, more function support
  • high quality power supply
  • free 3D filament and spool holder along with the 3D printer package.
  • Compact Desktop Design: Mini desktop 3D printer.Featuring a small footprint and basic, open frame design, this 3D printer is compact enough for any desks.
  • Worry Free Customer Service: Buy with confidence.Easy return and refund if you are not satisfied with our 3D printer.With professional technical engineer to solve the problems you may face when using the 3D printers.
  • Buy
  • Don’t buy

0 voters


Amazon Review by DreWizard :star::star::star::star::emptystar:

127 people found the following review helpful

Well I'll be damned... this is awesome!

After reading the other reviews, and seeing that they were all still highly rated despite a few "issues", I decided "oh why not, you know you want to..."

Let’s start with the cons… as there are not many:

  1. The Videos to describe how to put them together were low quality videos. Had to do a lot of rewinding and reviewing to see which part they were talking about.
  2. The power supply provided was bigger than the one in the video, took some electrical common sense to figure out that I wired the power into 2 grounds, thus providing no power.
  3. Also, since the power supply was bigger, for some reason it would not mount, so I had to drill an additional hole in the acrylic on the side of the printer to mount it.
  4. Not sure if it was my filament, or a dirty clog (seemed like the latter), but the first time I tried to put filament through it instantly clogged. Had to dismantle the extruder, and blowtorch the tip to unclog. Also, seemed a lot more difficult to remove than normal filament clogs, had to get feisty with a needle to get the gunk out. After reassembling, it was perfect.
  5. The Z-Stop is a pain in the butt. Generally if you need to adjust the Z stop, it’s a fraction of a millimeter, but this is a weird “slider” kind of mount that is very hard to make miniscule adjustments. I just tighten it really good, and gently force it into calibration after a few Z-Home clicks and minor adjustments through brute force. Will probably redesign the z-stop.
  6. For some reason (maybe it’s the way I assembled it?) the little fan that connects to the extruder blower for “tip-cooling” was long enough to touch the heating element on the extruder, and immediately melted. I will have to design and print a better one.

Everything freakin works great! My biggest frustration, aside from rewinding the video dozens of times, was adjusting the Z stop. The first print you can see on the left, at the bottom the Z was too high, but it eventually corrected itself and made a very clean print. The print on the right was actually done through a smart phone Repetier connection with a better Z-stop calibration.

You may be able to see the quality on the sides of the prints being a little spacey between the layers. The side that is showing is the only side that did this and I believe it’s simply a bed leveling issue.

All-in-all I love this printer. I will be doing some advanced prints here in the next few weeks and I will be giving a one-month review with any additional experiences I acquire during that time.

6 MONTH REVIEW: Ok, so it has been a champ! I have had a few clogs in the extruder from switching between filaments and not purging the tip properly. Disassembled, torched, and reassembled.

Things to make careful note of: First off, the power supply is, in fact, underrated for the package. I received a 200W power supply, which is just shy of the requirements of perfect functionality. I ordered a 350W power supply for 3D printers, and hopefully it will resolve my issue. The only issue right now is how long it takes to heat the bed. When I tested with a multimeter, I was only getting 10.43V on the 12V powering the bed. I timed it today, and from ambient temperature (21C) it took 1 hour to get to 82C. Hoping the power supply is the only thing I need to address.

Still haven’t had the time to print the new Z stop, as I really just want to redesign it instead of reprint the two parts into one. Just note that it is very finicky to adjust the z stop, and is generally a 5-10 minute process to get perfect calibration.

Finally, I highly highly recommend getting a 1/4"-3/8" of glass cut for this bed, as well as applying a PEI surface. This will help you stop using ABS slurry or tape to get your prints to adhere.

I designed and printed several different tips for the fan, but I have yet to print the perfect fan tip to replace the one it came with. When I do find a perfect fit, I will post a link in my review for the replacement tip.


Ok, so I noticed several issues that needed to be addressed before I could consider this a good printer.

  1. the acrylic bed may not be perfectly lined up with the screw holes on the bed. I ordered a replacement y carriage for the MK2 printbed off of and because of the design, I needed to print spacers to use the new bed. (spacers on thingiverse under mwinzer)

  2. the print surface is incredibly slick, and is very hard to stick abs… you might get lucky with PLA… I recommend getting a piece of fitted glass and gator clamp it down. Use blue tape, or if you’re feeling fancy, get a PEI build surface for your glass along with the 3M tape necessary to adhere it.

  3. the Z stop mechanism is a sliding mechanism that resides directly behind one of the linear z rods/threaded rods. I redesigned a z-stop modification and uploaded it to thingiverse. (mwinzer is the name on thingiverse)

  4. I needed to upgrade the power supply to get the bed to heat beyond 82C, then I noticed the temp jumps to 95C. The temperature table is off in the firmware, and the ANET customer service did not offer an update for firmware, but instead offered the suggestion to “lower the temperature”… long story short: ZERO customer service.

It was an amazing journey getting this thing printing like I like it… actually still have a friend that is planning on purchasing this for the same journey… as far as being 100% print ready? You’ll have a lot to do. :slight_smile: - Customer Reviews: ALUNAR 3D Desktop Printer Prusa i3 DIY High Accuracy CNC Self Assembly